Hello,
I've only posted here a few times, and that was a long, LONG time ago...For those that remember, I was working on a documentary shot part on Hi-8, part on Super-8; I finally finished in the past month, and I'm ready to try on a more ambitious project, completely on Super-8. However, I have a few questions.
I'm anything but a technical wizard; I learned how to use Super 8 strictly by feeling it, and for the most part, it turned out great. But now, I've got this short (10 page) script that I want to shoot, and it looks to require a little more knowhow.
First off, is 24 fps best for syncing sound? I know it is for 16 and 35 mm, but is it the same with Super 8? I intend on recording the sound on a separate medium, transferring the film to video, where it will be edited and sunc. Would it match well with this method, or is another speed best?
Also, is there an easy, effective, and undamaging method of using dissolves WITHOUT a backwinder? I read the blurb on the site about it, but it lost me at "put a piece of electrician's tape on the drive shaft" (I know, I know, it's pathetic, again, I know so little about the technical aspects of it, just enough to make it work, my area is the artistic aspect; framing, lighting, zooms, pans, editing, etc).
If you can help, I'd greatly appreciate it.
First off, I'd say it would be a better idea to just do dissolves in post.
As for sync sound, you'll want a crystal sync camera if you have any dialogue that lasts more than 20 or 30 seconds. It would probably be a good idea to shoot at 24fps rather than 18.
How could I do dissolves in post?
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don?t mean to be rude, but you really don?t know how to do a dissolve? ...it?s not the cut, it?s the other one *grin*Originally posted by Will Dyess:
transferring the film to video, where it will be edited
No, I really don't know how to do a dissolve. My editing tools are primitive.
Its the same as a cross fade.
If you are editing on a computer then its very
unlikely your editing software doesnt include this.
You fade out one scene as you fade in the next scene.
Even the most rudimentary editing packages include some sort of fading function.
I am not editing on a computer, I apologize for sounding too stupid for you.
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I assume you mean a dissolve on the actual film? and without using a backwinder? Really the best way is to get a camera that does in camera dissolves. Saves some serious headaches.Originally posted by Will Dyess:
No, I really don't know how to do a dissolve. My editing tools are primitive.
Well, can you do it without a backwinder or a camera that does it? Even with headaches, I'm interested.
a dissolve is an effect where one scene gradually fades out, whilst another scene gradually fades in.
what you are doing is getting a double exposure of two scenes on the same sextion of film. The first scene fades out because you reduce the exposure.
The 2nd scene fades in because you increase its exposure.
In order to get a double exposure on a roll of film you will need to 'back wind' the film - ie: shoot a scene. Then wind the film back and shoot the second scene on the same section of film.
You probably know all this already.
So you wont be able to do it unless you 'back wind' your film. How you do it is up to you, and whatever methods you understand.
With super 8 its quite possible to shoot a scene. then take out the film cartridge, put it in a black bag, and using a penknife or something turn the little wheel on the cartridge back a few
turns.
If you fade out (reduce the exposure) whilst you film the first scene, and fade IN (increase exposure) the second, you will create a dissolve of sorts.
Its not a accurate 'science' even if you use a backwinder which is a small gadget you can buy.
Alternativly you could find a printing lab that will make a print of your super8 film. Ask them to do the disolve for you.
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